Algae Leather
Amphibian
What's the Project About?
Artificial leather is often criticized for its high plastic content. At Aalto University in the ChemArts project, we specialize in experimenting with and creating bio-based materials. Our goal was to create a bio-based leather alternative, prioritizing creative exploration and researching approach. Collaborating with Origin by Ocean and incorporating Sargassum algae residue into our recipe, we explored also the potential of this biomass for materials.
Work is done at Aalto University, School of Chemical Engineering, Chemarts, in cooperation with Origin by Ocean, by Elizaveta Lingonberg, 2024
This project was carried out within the scope of a student course and research, emphasizing its non-commercial nature. The resulting product serves as an outcome of our academic exploration and is not intended for commercial purposes.
What is Leather and How it is (usually) made?
We've got three choices (simplified):
First, we have genuine leather – a byproduct of meat production. In the tanning process, chemicals transform the skin into leather, followed by treatment with oils and waxes. Genuine leather is biobased, very durable, and the priciest, offering the best quality.
The second option, bonded leather, is the least favorable – created from leftovers of real leather mixed with plastic. It costs only 10-20% of genuine leather and seriously lacks in quality.
Finally, there's vegan leather. Vegan, or officially artificial, leather mimics the look and feel of real leather. In a simplified version of its structure:
1) The first layer is a fabric, which can be anything from cotton to polyester.
2) The second layer is a plastic coating, typically polyurethane or PVC, providing that durability so we can use it.
3) Then comes a stamping step to achieve a texture which make it look like a real leather.
4) Lastly, there's a color coating.
Why our leather is Amphibian? Because this material combines components from land and sea - cellulose & seaweed.
This material was made only with natural, organic, bio-based and bio-degradable components
Is it Possible to make product out of it?
Amphibian Bag
Texture of the material is leather like.
It is soft and also flexible. Very nice to hold it in hands.
Brown to orange natural colour coming from algae residue. No other colours were used.
It is easy to sew and make from it bag or anything else.
It is bio-based, bio-degradable and non-toxic.
Laser Engraving on the leather
Laser engraving on leather is a technique to engrave - "print" - figures on the material using a laser beam. Here on video we cut from the leather the fractal.
We've ensured it's feasible without causing any material burn.
All engraved figures were planned and prepared specifically for the project:
This time, behold the engraved fractal, alongside a mammoth.
Algae as a main component represents our leather
Here you can see handsome peaceful Sauropods - Biomass grand-grand-lovers:
Here was tested a simple figure.
Here is more complicated detailed image.
Let's see more variations of Amphibian leather
Rigid Option of Leather:
Leather Samples: Different amount of algae Sargassum residue results in different texture of material: always a unique one!
Perfect Material?
While it's off course a fantastic creation, it is not a perfect working creation, no. Amphibian leather is quite delicate; you can break it something like a carton. Plus, it's a bit sensitive to water – a little splash won't hurt, but submerge it, and yes, it will swell.
To get correct durability and water resistance are one of main challenges in creating bio-based materials. That's why you'll often find new, sustainable options boasting "Up to 60% bio-based leather." Getting water resistance and durability may involve some plastic or similar components. Truth be told, hitting 60-80% is already impressive. The shift happens gradually as we develop solutions. Why? Because each small step, achieving every 10% bio-based with quality we can use, involves huge work behind the scenes.
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In the end of the day Main question here
So Is it possible to switch to 100% bio-based material?
Switching completely to bio-based materials is tough because traditional ones, like plastic in things like leather, are actually important or even key components. Yes, from a material point of view, plastics are good! They're strong, last long, resist water, and cost low – that's why we use them a lot. And yes, we all know the catch – they're bad for the environment.
Trying to find something that works just as well but doesn't harm the planet, and also doesn't cost more - is a real challenge.
However, people worldwide are working hard on it, and we already have inspiring commercial options on the market. When it comes to leather, you can even find 100% bio-based commercial options - with alternative solutions that might include bio-based coatings, colors and eco-friendly hydrophobic additives. Another trending hot topic is mycelium leather. As a society, we are clearly heading in the right direction, and every step takes us closer to a world with better, eco-friendly options. 🌿💚
Special thanks:
To Origin by Ocean, Janika Lehtonen, Faizan Aurangzeb and Ena Naito
by Elizaveta Lingonberg, 2024
This project was carried out within the scope of a student course and research, emphasizing its non-commercial nature. The resulting product serves as an outcome of our academic exploration and is not intended for commercial purposes.